• Make sure the lot numbers on the rolls are the same. You want to be sure all of the paper you buy comes from the same dye batch so the colour is consistent. Be sure to make a note of the number somewhere in case you need it for future reference.

• Always buy a little more than you think you’re going to need. There is always some waste involved in wallpapering and having a little extra on-hand saves trips to the store and aggravation.

• Start simple. If you’ve never wallpapered before pick one that’s pre-pasted and has an easy pattern to match (or better yet, does not require matching). They’re easier to handle and more forgiving if you make a mistake. Vinyl-coated papers are also good choice; they are washable, more durable and can be smoothed onto the wall more easily.

Before you start, be sure to turn off the electricity in the room you’re papering; especially if you’re going to be papering around switches or outlets. Water and electricity don’t mix!

1. Put down a drop cloth to protect any furniture and the floor you will be working over. If you’re planning to paint any trim or the ceiling, do that first so you don’t accidentally splatter paint on your nice new wallpaper.

2. Remove the old wallpaper. This could be easy or challenging depending upon the age of the paper. Newer “strippable” papers are much easier to tear off, while older, pasted wallpapers may need a little more convincing to come free. It’s not a good idea to apply new wallpaper over an older layer of wallpaper; it can result in bubbles, wrinkles and other unsightly areas.

3. Use a scoring tool to break the surface of the old wallpaper. Then wet it with warm water and scrape the paper away with a drywall knife. You may find it helpful to apply a special wallpaper stripper to dissolve tough glue underneath. If the old wallpaper is particularly stubborn you can also use a wallpaper steamer to help break down the old glue.

4. When the walls are free of old paper, wash them with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) to remove any remaining glue.

5. Sand the wall lightly if necessary (try a drywall sander to cover large areas) and wash away any dust. You will also need to sand if you are wallpapering over a wall that has been previously painted. New wallpaper may not adhere properly to a painted surface if it’s not prepared properly beforehand.

6. Fill any holes and scratches with spackle and allow it to dry. If you are using a wall covering primer, mask off areas like the mouldings where paper will not be hung; then apply the primer from a tray with a roller.

7. Remove light switch plates and electrical outlet plates and mask off the interior so they won’t get wet. Be sure to watch out for wiring!

8. Once the walls are repaired and completely clean, you will need a vertical line to mark the starting point for your wallpaper. Use a plumb bob hanging from a chalk line to mark the vertical line where your first strip of paper will be hung. This will eliminate guesswork and the need to re-position paper after hanging. Be sure to start in an area of the room where any mismatches will be less obvious. Behind doors, window edges and corners are all good starting points depending on the layout of your room.

Note: Before you start, check the manufacturer’s information on your wallpaper for any instructions or recommendations specific to your brand.

1. Use a sharp utility knife and a metal yardstick to cut your first piece of wallpaper.

2. When you measure, add 2 extra inches to the top and bottom of the strip – this will be trimmed off later and will help make sure that you don’t cut the sheet too short by accident. As you go around the room it’s a good idea to re-measure the height of your walls from time to time since shifting in older homes can affect your measurements.

3. If your new wallpaper is pre-glued it will have to be moistened in a wallpaper tray according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If it is not pre-pasted then you will need to apply wallpaper paste to the back with a paste brush.

4. Hang the first piece of wallpaper flush with your chalk line and use a smoothing brush to move any bubbles from the centre of the paper to the edge.

5. Trim the excess paper at the top and bottom so that it is smooth and flush with the edge of the moulding and re-glue the edges as necessary for a good fit.

6. Cut your next piece, again allowing a couple of extra inches at the top and bottom so that you can match the pattern with the previous piece. When it is positioned properly, use a seam roller and seam adhesive to strengthen the edges. Trim and repeat with subsequent pieces.

7. Lightly smooth each piece, roll seams and add adhesive as necessary. Trim tops and bottoms for a straight edge as you go around the room. Stubborn bubbles can be pricked with a pin to release the air and rolled flat.

8. Using a metal ruler and knife, trim the outline of the switch plates, allowing an excess of 1/4” inside the plate area for the plate to cover. Some decorators like to use the trimmed paper to decorate the switch plate itself. If you do this, make sure you apply the paper before putting the plate back on the wall! When it is dry, trim the switch, plug and screw holes, then reattach the plate.

9. Wash off any excess glue and remove masking from woodwork and clean up work area. Clean tools with water and allow paper to dry overnight.

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