Nothing enhances the look of your home like beautiful new flooring. Laminate floors are durable and easy-to-install, which makes them a favourite among do-it-yourselfers. Plus they’re available in a wide variety of colours and finishes to suit virtually any style.

We have provided these instructions as a general guide for installing a floating floor. If you are uncertain about any aspect of this project, consult a local professional before proceeding. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and take all reasonable safety precautions during any do-it-yourself project.

1. Extra credit: If you’re planning to paint the room, now is a good time…that way you won’t accidentally drip paint on your brand new flooring.

   Measure the room and calculate the area to be covered in square feet. Make a sketch of the room showing all measurements and any obstacles that need to be worked around.
2. Be sure to purchase extra flooring (usually 10% more than you need to cover your floor) for cutting, waste, and mistakes. If you’re planning to do more than one room in the same finish, it is recommended that you purchase all the required flooring at the same time. Flooring styles and colours change frequently and you may not be able to get matching laminate in the future.
3. Give the laminate time to adjust to the climate of your room. This will help prevent shifting and gapping after installation. The closed packages should be laid out horizontally in the room for at least 48 hours before you start your project.
4. Be certain that the subfloor is dry, clean and solid. The surface needs to be completely debris-free for laminate to install properly.
5. Foam underlay is required under all laminate floors. This soft foam barrier helps reduce noise and makes the floor more comfortable to walk on. The underlay should run in the same direction as the laminate flooring with the edges butted together (not overlapping). The seams should be securely taped. If you’re putting laminate over concrete or floors with a crawlspace beneath them, you will require a foam underlayment with a built-in vapor barrier. This will keep moisture away from your flooring.

1. Extra credit: Want your laminate to slide easily under door frames? Trim frames to the right height by turning a floor panel upside down and using a handsaw to cut the bottom edge of the frame.

   Remove the tongue from a length of laminate, by scoring it with a utility knife and snapping it off. Removing the tongue will allow your first row of laminate to fit properly along the wall.
2. Begin installing your laminate in a corner of the room by placing a length with its trimmed edge along the wall. Use spacers between the laminate and the wall to leave some room for expansion. Follow manufactures recommendation for the size of the expansion gap.
3. Insert the tongue on the end of the second length into the groove on the end of the first at a slight angle, and then lower it to the floor. Use a tapping block and mallet to fit the panels together securely. Make sure the edges of each piece line up properly so that the next row will fit into place.

4. Extra credit: When using a tapping block, make sure that the block is positioned as close to the connecting plank as possible to prevent chipping or tearing.

   When you reach the last panel turn it 180° with the decorative side up and place it beside the row. Then mark where it meets the end of the last full panel, and trim off the excess. Remember to leave a small gap for expansion.
5. Once your last piece is in place, start the next row with the length that was cut off of the previous one. This will ensure that the pieces in each row will be offset. Keep in mind that each piece should be a minimum of 8” long.
6. For the last row, you will probably have to cut your planks lengthwise to make them fit. To get your measurement lay a plank directly over the last row. Then lay a second plank on top of the first one (tongue to the wall) and use the edge as a ruler. Don’t forget to leave room for the expansion gap.

7. Extra credit: If you’re trimming laminate with a handsaw, cut on the decorative side. If you’re using a jigsaw or circular saw, cut with the decorative side down. This will help reduce chipping and cut down on waste.

   Install baseboards and quarter round moulding to finish the edges of the room where the floor meets the wall. Fasten quarter round to the baseboard. Never nail through the laminate flooring, as this prevents expansion and contraction.
8. Use reducer moulding in areas where laminate meets carpet or where the adjoining floor is lower than the laminate. Simply attach the track directly to the sub-floor with nails, screws or glue and then insert the reducing strip into the track.
9. Use landing moulding to finish laminate flooring on landings. For stability and safety this type of moulding needs to be glued down and screwed directly into the sub-floor. Use colour fill to hide counter-sunk screws.
   Please note that laminate flooring is not recommended for stairs.