The ledger board attachment is crucial to building a solid deck.

• No matter what material is chosen to construct the deck, the ledger board should always be pressure treated lumber. It is recommended that the exterior siding be removed where the ledger board is being installed so that the board has direct and solid contact with the framing of the building.
• Waterproof membranes, drip caps and flashings are then installed to direct water away from the building, especially where flashing overlaps, the corners, top and bottom of the ledger board.
• Drill a 3/8” pilot hole through the ledger and into the house's rim joist, 12 inches apart in a zig-zag pattern and fasten using galvanized 1/2” x 6” (minimum) lag bolts with washes, making sure that each is anchored to the rim joist of the building, using an impact wrench or socket wrench.

• Cut a 6” wide strip of a waterproof membrane (flashing) the same length as the ledger. Tuck the top portion of the membrane under the siding above the ledger board and cover the top and front (by 1 inch) of the ledger board. Then cover the same membrane with metal or vinyl flashing or drip edge to ensure water runs away from the building and over the ledger board. See the experts at your local Kent store for more details. Note: the use of aluminum flashings or any aluminum products is not permitted when using pressure treated lumber.
• Fasten double dipped galvanized joist hangers at 16 inch on center on the ledger board. The size of the joist hangers is determined by the size of the joists themselves. For example, 2” x 8” joists would require 2 x 8 joist hangers. The use of Joist Hanger nails are required for this installation.

Footings provide the foundation that will support your deck. See your local building permit office for footing requirements in your area.

• Footings must be installed lower than the local frost line. This usually a depth of 4’ (four feet).
• The use of 10 inch Sonotubes sitting atop a 28 inch “Big Foot” footing case is most popular when making a foundation footing for decks. It is required to bury or backfill these footings before filling them with concrete.
• Fill with concrete ensuring there are no air pockets. Be sure to insert a galvanized saddle post into the concrete footing before the concrete cures. Then allow the concrete to cure for up to one week before continuing the construction.

• Once the concrete has cured, install pressure treated posts on top of the post saddles and secure using 2” x 3/8” lag bolts. The length of the installed posts should be trimmed to create a level surface for the beams that are going to be installed atop of them.
• Cut pressure-treated 2x stock to create a “three-ply” or three-layered support beam. Laminate them using construction adhesive and nail together from both sides using 3-1/2” nails or screws, spaced every 6” in a zigzag pattern.
• Place the beam on top of the posts and toenail into the posts. Adding additional bracket hardware is recommended.

• Rest one end of each joist on the joist hangers fastened to the ledger board and rest the other end on the beam.
• Determine the location of each joist on top of the beam so that the deck is “square” (90 degrees) to the building and that each is 16” on center, just like the joist hangers. Fasten each joist to the beam using hurricane ties.

• • To choose the proper size for your pre-cut stair stringers, you need to calculate the total rise (height) of your deck. Once this is determined, subtract 7 inches, and divide the remaining figure by 7”. This is the number of risers your stair stringers will require for your deck. Kent carries 3, 4, 5 and 6 step pre-fab stringers. If your deck is higher than 42 inches, you will need to build your own stringers. See your experts at your local Kent store for details.
• Span the stringers using deck boards or solid stair treads to create stairs and attach the steps to the stringers using galvanized nails deck screws.

• For 90 degree installation of decking (perpendicular to joists), slide the first line of deck board against the ledger and screw the boards to the joists using galvanized nails or deck screws. Lay the adjacent line of deck boards, leaving a 1/8” space from the first line for drainage. Stagger the length of deck boards so the end joints for adjacent boards are on different joists.
• For 45 degree installation (shown here), start by snapping a chalk line from corner to corner of the outside joists. Use this line as the starting point for your first row of boards. Continue by laying the adjacent line of deck boards, leaving a 1/8” space from the first line for drainage. Stagger the length of deck boards so the end joints, cut on 45 degree angles, are on different joists. Note: the installation of decking boards at a 45 degree angle requires the joists to be placed 12 inch on center, not 16 inchs.
• Continue installing deck boards until the floor is complete.
• Snap a chalk line on the deck boards 1” past the outside joists and cut off the overhang.

• Before starting your railings, always check with your local building codes to ensure you meet proper rail height and baluster spacing standards. In most provinces, decks from ground level to 24 inches in height require no railing, decks 24 to 72 inches in height require 36 inch high railings and 42 inch railing on decks higher than 72 inches.
• There must never be a greater space within the railing greater than 4 inches.
• Calculate how many posts your deck will require and where there need to be located. Remember to include two posts at each corner and at the bottom and top of your stairs. Maximum distance between posts depends on your local building code but is usually between 6' and 8'. Cut your floor decking away from where the post will drop-in, then screw to joists. Secure with additional joist blocking once in place.
• Once your posts are in place , install the horizontal rails between the top and bottom of the posts. 4x4 posts with 2x4 rails are a common choice.
• To assemble the remainder of the railings, start by measuring the distance between the top and bottom rail you have just installed. Then, cut two 2x4's the same length as the rail. The total thickness of these 2x4's (3") subtracted from the original distance between the top and bottom rail height will give you the baluster/spindle height. This is often easier to assemble on the ground and screw into place once complete.
• Screw each baluster/spindle into place with spacing in between of 3-1/2" to 4".
• Wedge the finished piece between the bottom and top rail and screw into place.